Chaiten

The History
May 2, 2008 - Chaiten Volcano, Chile, erupts for the first time in over 2000 years
May 3, 2008 – State of Emergency declared in the nearby town of Chaiten.
May 5, 2008 - Complete evacuation of Chaiten ordered.
May 12, 2008 – Accumulation of rain and ash cause the Blanco River to overflow its banks and deposit tonnes of volcanic matter into the Chaiten valley, destroying the town and its immediate surroundings. *
February 19, 2009 - Chaiten Volcano erupts again – the biggest eruption in modern Chilean history.
February to Present – Continual and substantial ash emissions.

The Details *
A lahar is a type of mudflow composed of volcanic material and water that flows down from a volcano. Lahars typically cause catastrophic destruction because of their energy and speed and because they have the consistency of concrete: fluid when moving, solid when stopped. A lahar was the cause of the majority of the destruction in Chaiten.

Our Visit
In January 2009, seven months after the first eruption, Nick and I visited Chaiten. The scene that greeted us was surreal. The destruction caused by the lahar was extensive. So extensive. Homes covered halfway to the roof with ash. Bus stops, street signs and stores suspended in time on the main thoroughfare, buried. The riverbanks, meters high walls of ash and dead plants. The town’s port and beach, desolate stretches of grey, unnaturally dotted with the occasional uprooted house. It was like nothing I have ever seen before. Nothing.
The town itself was quiet - a light wind, a few tourists toting cameras, some army personnel and a small cleanup crew the only activity on an overcast day. Oh, that, and Volcan Chaiten, in the background, still incredibly active, still ominously and patiently spewing plumes of thick ash kilometers into the sky.

The Present
Whilst Chilean officials insist they cannot guarantee residents’ safety in Chaiten, a recent Supreme Court ruling decreed that the Government did not have the power to prevent residents from returning to their homes. And, even after February 19, 2009, when Volcan Chaiten produced its most spectacular eruption to date, destroying even more of the town - people still refuse to leave. And, even after an official government press release announcing that Chaiten will not be rebuilt and that residents will be compensated for new homes purchased - people still refuse to leave.

A Short Comment
My first response to people being allowed to return to live in Chaiten is one of utter dismay. I’m sure it is a response I share with many, especially those who have visited the town, seen the destruction, and witnessed the quiet menace of the unrelenting volcanic activity.
Ultimately though, I very strongly believe that the power and freedom to follow your heart is by far the greatest tool of happiness a person can have.